Author Archives: Glen Williamson

Day 5, Wednesday, Huatulco to Zipolite

Day 5 – Wednesday – What a beautiful day

We slept well last night.  No bugs, no issues, just the sounds of the ocean, about 100 feet away, going in and out.

As usual, we got up, got coffee and had breakfast at the hotel.  They serve traditional Mexican and American breakfast.  We enjoyed our first meal of the day and talked to a few people in the restaurant.  We went back to our room and sat on our beautiful terrace and watched the beach goers.  It was settling in, we are about 2800 miles away in a tropical paradise, on the Pacific side of Mexico.

It’s what we’ve wanted, just to “veg” and do almost nothing.  Playa Zipolite didn’t let us down.  People watching is just awesome.  Seeing families with children run towards and then away from the surf is a small bit of youth serum. The demographics of the people were from one scale to another.  There isn’t a typical vacationer in this little piece of paradise.  They run the gamut; we met doctors, lawyers, authors, nomads, retirees, and everything in between.  People from all over the world, from Sweden, Canada, Finland, good ‘ole USA, and Mexico, just to name a few. We saw every kind of group of people walking together enjoying the day, female/male, female/female, male/male, triads, quads, and whatever you can imagine.  It seems that what they all have in common is tolerance and respect.  It’s day five and we haven’t seen a fight, quarrel, or any loud words.  In fact, as of today, we still have seen any police/Federales.  That’s how peaceful Zipolite is.

Later that evening, we went to an early dinner at Los Almandros in downtown, Zipolite they have fantastic food and we enjoyed the atmosphere.  The street vendors were also setting up so we looked around a bit.  We then we went back to Hotel Estrella de Mar.  They do not have a bar on the property so we went down the beach and  enjoyed a cocktails.  We returned, laid on the beach before turning in.

A truly lazy and beautiful day!

Day 6 will be totally different.

 

 

 

 

Day 4 – Tuesday, Ahh – So Refreshing – Huatulco to Zipolite

Day 4 – Tuesday, Ahh – So Refreshing

What a refreshing night. We weren’t directly on the beach here at Hotel Nude, but our room had an open air roof, where anything could fly in and out.  So we awoke at about 7:30 am to the sounds of chirping and whistling birds, singing a pleasant melody, as if they didn’t have anything to care about.  Maybe the netting was for more than mosquitoes, maybe bird droppings too!

So, we made coffee, then went on our balcony to absorb the sounds of the day.  As we sat there, we noticed a couple, very well tanned, about in their 40’s, totally in their “birthday suit” also sipping coffee.  They waved at us and we smiled and waved back.

We looked down to the pool and saw a couple of young men, in the buff, probably mid 20’s.  They were hugging each other, laughing and giggling.  The early risers were making the best of this crisp, sunny morning.  There was something in the air; I just can’t describe it.  It was a feeling of gaiety; it felt wonderful to be alive.

We sat there for about 30 to 45 minutes, then we walked down to the beach.  There we noticed again, the beach walkers, the yoga stretchers, the dog walkers and others in the ocean.  We noticed families with children, to middle agers, to others who looked retired.  All of them, looking as happy and content as possible.  Yup, we were feeling that way too.  Playa Zipolite has some sort of magical feeling that is hard to describe.  The feeling of the area is so relaxing, it’s contagious.  Or I was simply happy that Toni woke up smiling!

We stayed on the beach for a while, then we realized that we had to pack (we really only unpacked what we were going to wear and our toiletries); after all, we had another place to go to, and our stay here at Hotel Nude was just for one night.

We checked out about 11:30 am, and decided to go for a drive to the west of Zipolite, because we couldn’t check into Hotel Estrella de Mar until around 3 pm.

So we headed out, stopped in San Augustinillo, Mazunte, Chacahua, and Playa Ventanilla.  We basically were just enjoying the countryside and the warmth of Pacific Mexico.  Everything was so green and beautiful.   We stayed at Playa Ventanilla for about an hour, walked the beach, had a coke then headed back to Zipolite.  

On the way back, we drove past Hotel Estrella de Mar and went to Puerto Angel.  We were in heaven, after all, we have had the best sleep since arriving in Zipolite and Toni was happy (if Mama is happy, then I’m happy, if she’s not, then you know what… ).

We arrived at 2:30 pm to Hotel Estrella de Mar and they had Room 2 on the first floor, next to the beach, all ready for us.  Daniel (the owner’s son and receptionist) gave us the key.  What a feeling.  Toni was just smiling away.  The room was absolutely clean and there was no mosquito net.  Not having a mosquito net said a lot.  They were content that they didn’t have bug problem because they cleaned every nook and cranny of the rooms each day.  You could smell how clean it was. They were absolutely right, except for a couple gnats, we didn’t see any pests in the room.  It was heaven to us, compared to our first two nights, east of us, at the “other” hotel.

We had a small terrace with chairs and a table.  It was wonderful for sunny mornings and late night conversation.

Once we got comfortable, we sat outside on our deck for a couple hours, then went to a local restaurant on the beach for a late, late lunch (I can’t remember the name of it).  But the food was also terrific and cervezas and cocktails flowed freely.

We went back to our room sat on our terrace and had a lively conversation with a gynecologist and his wife from Toluca, just outside of Mexico City.  His wife stayed about 30 minutes and had gone to bed, but the three of us talked for about an hour.  It was quite funny, because he knew little English and we knew little Spanish, we both relied on Google Translator to converse. 

After saying “Hasta Mañana” we turned in, excited about the days to come.  

Life is good!!!!  

We’ll post more about day five tomorrow.


 

Day 3 – Toni Tapped Out – Huatulco to Zipolite

Day 3 – Monday, Toni Tapped Out

We did enjoy watching the morning come alive on Playa Zipolite.  Certain faces on the beach were becoming familiar.  We would see the tall blonde lady, about mid 30’s, stretching, doing some form of yoga.  An older couple, probably over the age of 65, just briskly walking east at first, then west on the beach.  A muscular, local gentleman, maybe in his 20’s, tossing his Frisbee for his dog to chase.  We enjoyed seeing Alexa, probably age, mid to late 30’s, from Finland, who had an upstairs room, coming down to the lounge next to our room to use the WiFi.  So many activities, too many to share.

The breeze off the ocean was refreshing, brisk and watching the sun rise over the eastern ridge is a sight to see.  That’s the sensation, we were taking in.  Playa Zipolite is definitely a good place to chill and relax.

However, Toni reminded me of our current situation …

Cockroaches, mold, ants, no mirror, no toilet seat, minimum sleep and no ventilation – Toni has had it.  She’s tapped out and said to me “I’m out of here.  We’ve got to find another hotel.  I will not spend another night here, even if it means us sleeping in our rental car.”  I am leaving out the “colorful expletives”. Guess what – after 41 years with her (40 years married), I knew she meant it.  Her patience had worn thin and it’s time for us to move on.  So we agreed to go over to Lolas and have breakfast and then walk down the beach to find another hotel for the next five days.

So, after breakfast – and it was a delicious breakfast, with the best coffee we’ve ever tasted in a restaurant, we went walking down to a hotel that looked appealing. We went up to the lobby of Hotel Estrella de Mar and asked if they have any rooms available for “today leaving Saturday.”  The receptionist, Daniel in broken, but ok english, said that “they don’t have any rooms for tonight, but will have rooms for tomorrow through Friday.”  Toni’s eyes welled up with tears, she walked outside towards the beach, sat down and started crying.  I said to her, “Why are you crying?”  Toni responded, “because I just can’t stay another night in that hotel.  I’ve had enough.”  I then said to Daniel, I’ll take the room for Tuesday to Friday and told Toni that we’ll figure out what to do tonight and Friday night.  I immediately gave Daniel a deposit of 700 pesos  (roughly $37) to hold the rooms for those three nights.  

Let me explain further – the room that we were getting was also on the beach, first floor, at least 100 times better, had no ants, they changed the linen every day it had furnishing, a modern shower facility with toilet seats and mirrors, we were only paying roughly $2 more per night.  This hotel was so insect free that it didn’t have a mosquito net around the bed.  Wow!!! Of course we took it, even if though we had to find somewhere else to “stay tonight.”

We walked back to Hotel Salmastro (or as Toni called it – Casa Fungus) and I packed the largest suitcase, put it in the car, and went driving off.  I assured Toni that we were going to find somewhere else and by packing one of the suitcases, the largest, hers, showed her that I was very serious (as Toni says – ‘if Mama ain’t happy, nobody’s happy’ and that meant me too).  She was also serious and started to Google hotels close to us.  She called around and finally found one that said they had a room just for the night, on the second floor, and that’s it.  They were booked for the rest of the week.  

The hotel Toni found was Hotel Nude, which was on the other side of the beach.  As the name suggested, it was a hotel where you can be nude all day, including at their pool.  Yup, even though they were on Playa Zipolite (btw: playa in Spanish means beach), they had a pool also.  I reminded Toni about her bad hip and the room was on the second floor, she said she didn’t mind, as long as she wasn’t at Casa Ants and Cockroaches (another name she had for the other hotel).  

So we drove directly to Hotel Nude, Toni sat in the car, I went up to the check in desk and asked if they still had the one room available.  The receptionist said yes, and that it was 1200 pesos (roughly $65) for one night.  I gladly paid it.  I just couldn’t take my wife of 40 years being miserable anymore.  She truly was unhappy with ‘Casa Mold’ (another name she had for it) and I knew I had to cheer her up.

I danced to the car in the parking lot and let her know we had a room for the night.  We took the one suitcase that we had packed up to the room (Room 19), looked around and then drove back to Hotel Salmastro and finished packing.   At around noon, we returned back to Hotel Nude, got our beach attire on, went down to the beach and stayed there until dusk.  We were in heaven; we were no longer in a ant/roach infested hotel.  This hotel also had mosquito netting around the bed so bugs were to be expected.  But the ambiance and bedding were far superior and cleaner than our previous stay. To make it even better, Toni did not freak out when we pulled the covers back!

We met a couple on the beach that encouraged us to go to El Alquimista for dinner.  They said it was the best place to eat in Zipolite.  So we cleaned up and headed out to dinner around 8 pm at El Alquimista.

El Alquimista didn’t disappoint us!  The ambiance was absolutely spectacular; you could hear the ocean, feel the breeze and see flickering tiki lights on the rocks and around the restaurant.  It set the evening up to be a very romantic night.  Toni was starting to feel like we were on vacation; her warmth was coming back; she was no longer using vulgar words and I had my charming wife back.  She was glowing with excitement for the evening to come.

We had a fantastic dinner.  Toni had chicken with cream of mushroom and vegetables and I had beef filet with black pepper, vegetables and mash potatoes.  Gaiety, fun and libation flowed for the next couple of hours; we were having a good time.  Really, when you visit Zipolite, you’ve must go to El Alquimista for dinner.  You can also stay there because it’s also a resort.  The couple that told us about this restaurant was also there for dinner and came over to say hello.

On the way home, driving back to Hotel Nude we heard a person, who we now know as Mina, yelling at us.  “You’ve gotta stop here; stop here and have a drink.”  So we pulled over, and stopped in at  Ron’s Place in downtown Zipolite.  After seeing him, I told him, that I heard about him – that someone had mistaken me walking on the beach as him, except they said he was bigger.  Ron chuckled and we stayed for about an hour and had a couple of drinks.

So after a fantastic, romantic evening, we went back to Hotel Nude to get settled in for night.  “What that on the wall?”  I said in a calm voice to Toni.  She looked and didn’t reply.  I said, “Toni it’s a scorpion.”  That’s right, we came back to the room with a scorpion on our wall.  Well, at least it was only one, and not a zillion ants and roaches. Toni was amazingly calm, maybe because it was on the wall and not in the bed.  Though she did check the bed for critters.   I killed it, then went under our mosquito net and had a fairly nice sleep.  

We did see a couple ants on the wall in our room in the morning, but nothing like we had seen before.  You can’t go to a beach hotel and expect to not see a few bugs.  Overall, a very nice place.  Because we were there only one night, we awoke, (that’s right, Toni slept),  packed up, and drove to another city not too far away.  We couldn’t check into Hotel Estrella de Mar until around 3pm.

It’s getting better.  Day 4 will be posted tomorrow.